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| Craigievar Castle - bus tour, August, 1939* |
On our long awaited trip up to Scotland. It was an experience in itself getting here - train from Norwich to London, then Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Ballater, and a bus onto Braemar. Our first day was spent back on a bus, but a tour of the castles round about - and it gave me a chance to use my new camera.
I thought it would be a chance to get away from the international situation, but of course radio and news papers get everywhere and the whole country is alive with the latest. It might almost be last September all over again, but there is a different feeling now. I ended up calling on the local doctors, a Dr Macallister*, and we talked for over an hour - I suspect I'm one of the few professional men he has seen in a while and he was keen to share his views. Both of us have the same sense: that with each crisis the feeling that we should just 'get it over with' grows, a sort of weary recognition that the continued hope for peace gets harder to endure than the worst actually happening. In fact, the doctor knows many in the village that are actively in favour of 'taking on Hitler', including an absurd man who has apparently taken it upon himself to ensure Braemar is ready for 'the hun', and is to be seen parading around in an old brodie helmet. All ill conceived bravado, mostly by people who for one reason or another haven't fought before, in a place so out of the way that it could not possibly be any sort of a target in any circumstances, but they are all being encouraged by the obvious national preparations.
What as late as July felt half hearted as far as the authorities were concerned, now suddenly seems all too real. There was the air defence practise earlier this month with, the press say, over 1500 aircraft. The King has reviewed the fleet, there was the national blackout test with half the country plunged into darkness, and it seems you can't see a stretch of open water at the moment without seeing the navy. As we crossed the Tay on our way up, there were a number of fast patrol boats stationed in the estuary - a well informed local told me that it was 'secret' but that everyone knew that submarines had been stationed here. Even Chamberlain adjourning the commons until October seems to have notched up the sense that things are coming to a head - giving the feel of 'a tough line' and the Prime Minister getting ready to take quick, decisive action. I swear I even heard a man on the train saying that when Hitler sees what we have to throw at him, 'even if the shooting starts, it'll all be over by Christmas'. Just the sound of those stupid, overconfident words sent me right back to the trenches in Macedonia, and all the idiocy that people talked before the last time, and I was almost physically sick.
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| Drum Castle - bus tour, August 1939* |
Macallister and I met by chance in the pub a night later, and spent most of the night in war talk. We have the guarantee to Poland hovering over us, of course. We've been here before - Czechoslovakia - guarantee and subsequent total betrayal. Despite it all, neither he nor I could decide whether the humiliation of betraying Poland, or the prospect of honouring the guarantee, was worst. The best hope was that, insanely, the 'war war' voices have a point - that our obvious displays would warn Hitler off. There had been a flurry of optimism, or course, when the Anglo-French mission was sent to Moscow - a real feeling that we were building the pressure on Germany to compromise, even with constant news of border incidents, and a shooting at Danzig. All that was blown away by the announcement of the Nazi-Soviet non-aggression pact, and the withdrawal of the Anglo-French mission just days ago now, but it already seems like weeks.
After five pints each, we came to the startling conclusion that there's nothing we can do about it from a pub in Scotland, and gave it up as a bad job. I tried hard to put it out of my mind the next day, and my wife and my two girls went walking up the glen along the Dee, right into the Mar Estate - by permission procured via Macallister - and even got a snap or two. The children's talk was all of their new school and their uniform fitting next week, as though the world was normal, and for a while it was wonderful to hear. Always, though, I kept coming back to the situation in Germany, and morbid thoughts of the last war, wondering where we might be in even just a month's time let alone what we might be doing next summer. It was walking in the glen that I realised I myself may well have joined the group that is finding the waiting and hoping too much. Despite knowing what I went through last time, despite looking at the faces of the young men on the train up here, and walking around Braemar and knowing that it is
they who will have to fight, I have started just to want to know what it is we have to do, and get on with it.
As I said, radio gets everywhere - it connects you where ever you are instantly to what is happening. The cottage we have taken has an old, but surprisingly good set, and a weekly delivery of the Radio Times and despite my need to get away from things the temptation to turn it on was too much. I was able to follow the 3rd Test against the West Indies from the Oval (a draw, if you're interested, but which means we won the series), caught the last episode of 39 Steps which I have been following, and would have been sad to have missed, but on Tuesday I was caught out, and confronted with announcements from the Government concerning public services in the event of war, and a programme on lessons learnt from air raids in Spain. I spent the rest of the evening in a foul mood.

My holiday reading won't have helped much - the publishers Penguin have been rushing out special editions, and I have ordered the most sensible looking ones from my book sellers, Hollyman and Treacher. Just before we set out one arrived - I still get a flutter of excitement at the sight of those neat little brown paper parcels, even if the reading the promise is now grimes than it used to be. This one is an account from the Mass Observation movement of public opinion during the Czech crisis, but more interestingly, also an analysis of how poor our ability as a nation is to 'gauge the public mood'. Newspapers talk as though the nation talks with one voice, as though there is a singular 'will of the people', but this, of course, is just the opinion of leader writers and editors, amplified by a few like minded others they have talked to. Once you notice it, it is a feature of every news publication, and even B.B.C. broadcasts. People read a newspaper that echos their view, and they in turn echo the view of the newspaper they read. Similar people read similar newspapers, and so suddenly it seems, for example, to every reader of The Daily Express, that all readers of The Daily Express are united and that 'the nation has spoken'. We are, in effect, according to the Mass Observation people, trapped in little tribes, mutually reinforcing the opinions of those that we know, and those that are 'like us'.
It is not scientific, I know, but I have tried to talk to as wide a cross section of people here as I can, and I find two simple and obvious things: opinion on the whole affair is very similar to last September, but people's views are harder and more entrenched now. The second is that I am happy to agree with Macallisater because he and I are alike, and because, simply put, he has the good sense to agree with me.
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This blog aims to incorporate as much of my real life in 2019 into Fincham'39's experiences as possible. I did indeed find myself in a GP's surgery for over an hour in Braemar at this time, and had a very stimulating conversation about modern British politics. He was not called Macallister, but I hope he would recognise the sentiments of our conversation translated into the context of August 1939. We also visited Dundee, looked out over the Tay, and did walk right up into the Lynn of Dee across the Mar Estate. I cannot deny that reading 'Britain by Mass-Observation' in the calm of the Highlands whilst overshadowed by BREXIT struck a worrying chord. All photos taken August 2019.
Specific Sources:
August 1939 time line
Radio Times Issue 829, dated August 18th 1939
3rd Test against the West Indies - full score card for August 1939
Dundee Submarine Base HMS Ambrose